Sunday, March 23, 2014

Pierra Menta Final Stage

The Professor and I finished the race and raced well during the final stage. This has easily been the hardest race I've ever entered or finished. Areches Beaufort, a hidden gem of a place in the Savoie region of France has hosted this race for 29 years now and it is clear that the race has become an important part of the local tradition and economy. I am very very glad we made the sacrifices we have made to participate in the 29th edition.
photo stolen from www.pierramenta.com (iconic mt. blanc background)
The final stage was much shorter than the previous three days and the pace from the start line was faster. Much faster. This day went more like an average "normal" individual ski mountaineering race. The course was 1472 meters of gain (4850') with a 3300' descent to the finish line. There was about a foot of fresh snow on the higher part of the course and the skiing was difficult on blown quads and blistered feet. Brian and I took turns setting the pace and we both went relatively fast considering the beat down from the prior three days.

powder day racing. i was enough ahead of brian to stop for the pic.
he dropped the hammer on me on the next climb.
Our Overall Progress:


  • 210 mens teams started the race
  • we were seeded 194 (stupid americans)
  • 167 teams finished
  • we finished 123 for stage 4
  • we finished 143 overall
  • I am very glad we did not drop after my brutal cramp-fest on day 1
FINISHED. give me some soup and coca-cola.
Depletion:

I got really cold at the top of the final climb/descent. I skipped the hat and I was wet with sweat from the storm and sweat. It took me about thirty minutes of drinking soup and coke to come back from a shivering blubbering low point. I once saw SLC skimo icon Jared Inouye in this state after a race at Targhee and I wondered what it must feel like to be so blown out. Now I know. Good with that.

Beaufort center town and site of closing ceremonies
Closing Ceremonies and Lunch:

Lunch for 5/600 at the local basketball gym

A very Savoiard lunch. Cheese grits (polenta with gravy) Sausage,
Beaufort cheese, unremarkable bread, cheap wine and a very strange tart

We went to the group lunch and had a great meal. Normally I don't like sausage very much but these country French folk really do pork well. Like the race meetings, the whole deal was done in French and we decided to skip out on the ceremonies to avoid the traffic and get back to Chamonix asap. We had coffee in town with the Norwegians and hit the road. It was fun to see the local way of doing ag. They keep their coveted Beaufort cows in windowless barns all winter. I can't imagine how bad those structures must smell. Likely not much worse than the stench of horse piss I deal with nearly every day at home.

Back to Chamonix:

We're back in Cham. I took a long nap and ate a bunch of miso soup that I brought from home and I feel surprisingly well. We went out for Chinese food next to the Aguille du Midi Station and it was your typical Chi-tow stuff. Yummy. Its storming and it looks like powder skiing is up next. I'm pretty sure we'll go skiing tomorrow and Tuesday and I fly home Wednesday. I miss my wife and daughter very much and can't wait to give them a big hug. On the last climb I had a very strange thought for racing. I wanted nothing more at that moment than to be on the couch with Kristeen and Sullivan and to be done with the suffer-fest that was the Pierra Menta.

inch-an-hour snow storm in cham. this is the original midi tram station
in chamonix sud. brian's flat is in the top story of this renovated historic
structrue. super cool little piece of history.

Saturday, March 22, 2014

Pierra Menta Day 3

Today was hard. The main event. The Grand Mont stage. 8900 vertical feet with a ton of steep skinning and steep boot-packing up dangerous terrain. The fans were classic. Brian and I raced well, had no real mishaps and generally spent the day in the part of the pack where we belong: the back third. It was really cool to see fellow Jackson Holers Mike Werner and Carol Viau in the clouds and on the ridges. Mike and Carol were a welcome sight at three different transitions. Awesome.



Carol's photo of the mayhem on the Grand Mont

Gilles and his eight year old son skinning to the Grand Mont
 Mike Werner, Carol Viau, Gilles Gontharet and Gilles' two boys came up from Les Arcs to spectate the race. Mike and Carol are Jackson Hole ski patrollers on exchange at Les Arcs and Gilles is Mike's boss. Gilles is a veteran ski alpinisme racer and fourteen time Pierra Menta entrant. Carol was regaling us with tales of Gilles' boys dropping her on the tour up to the Grand Mont. I can imagine these boys will be life-long skiers.

A few weeks ago Gilles did a monumental ski tour where he linked the ski areas around Les Arcs and clocked 6000 meters (near 20,000') in 9.5 hours wow. Here is the video of his day:


 The Grand Mont Spectators:

Below are a few photos of the grand mont spectators. The guy with the log is classic. This dude skinned 3000' with a 20+ pound cowbell around his waste, a three foot long log, a skillet and likely a pack full of local sausages, wine, and who knows what else. Werner told me these guys carve these logs in a way that makes them an alpine one-log camp/cooking fire. I must learn how to do this.

The local enthusiasm for the sport can not be overstated. People young and old rocking skin-suits, light gear and partying for the big stage was super fun to see. I used to think that it is a shame that there is little interest in the states and Jackson in particular but honestly I'm totally over it. Things are obviously different in the Teton Countys (Wyo and Idaho) and as far as skimo racing in Jackson goes, I really don't ever see interest (in skimo) getting huge. Nordic and alpine racing, fat and baggy dude-skiers/TGR-philes and real-deal ski mountaineers comprise the fabric of our ski culture and like all things it is driven by history, geography and sheer population. It is however cool to see the rando scene blowing up in Salt Lake where warm weather and mass population will continue to drive the sport down there. I hope to see youth programs start to emerge because the youth are and will always be our future

Today's Showing:

Brian and I raced our best stage today. We placed 123 of 175 as teams continue to fall off the back. So far, it seems like about 15/20 teams have had to drop out of the race and sadly Max Taam and John Gaston dropped today. John is having major foot problems and had to drop. Bummer for them it is sad to see the A-team from the US drop out. Andrew McNabb and Reiner's 15th place showing last year remains North America's best showing in the men's race and now that I have seen how this goes, I am really drop-jawed about how these guys managed to go so F-ING fast. Strong work friends. Wow.

We were slower than 122 men's teams and 6 women's teams. Melanie and Valentine finished fifth despite some brutal sickness problems plaguing Mel. We were with them on the first climb and I stopped to take a few photos of them and I could tell that Mel was deep in the hurt locker. It took my oxygen deprived brain a few minutes to think of something I could say to actually help Mel down there in the locker. I told her that we were going substantially faster than yesterday and that she and Valentine were surely doing well. My logic was based on the idea that we had previously never been in eye or ear-shot of them on the first two days and that can be demoralizing to someone having a hard time thinking that they might be off pace. I hope it was helpful. They managed a speedy race and a good placement. This race will teach you to fight and ignore the pain like no other I have or likely will experience.

The stage today was 2636 meters or, 8696 vertical feet gain and loss. To put that in US terms, that is like climbing to and skiing down from the Jackson Hole tram twice and then having to climb to and ski down from the Casper Restaurant. Another cool geek out thing Brian is chirping in my ear as I write is that on the last climb we made 90' per minute for 1000 feet. I was in the pain cave for that one.

Mike and Carol got up at three to make it here for the festivities.
Thanks for the home-town support guys. Awesome to see them here.

you can't see this dude's skillet hanging off the pack

crazy spectators


Dynastar's flagship touring lineup
I have an older version of the green
sticks that I dearly love. Europe-only. 



























Tomorrow's Stage:

The website just updated tomorrow's stage. Thankfully it is only 1400 meters (4620'). I am relieved to have a relatively easy stage for the conclusion. Both Brian and I are dealing with a lot of blisters from the warm warm weather. Every day when I take my boots off my feet look like I've been in the bathtub too long. I am certainly not used to skiing let alone racing in such warm weather. Now I see why the euro boots come with such thin liners. Things are different here. Ha. I am confident that we will finish the race and I am both looking forward to and dreading one more day of racing. My body hurts. My feet hurt. Even my rib cage is sore. This race has been a full value beat-down. Pushing El Cap is kids stuff on the scales of suffering.

rain and snow today. tomorrwow could be a slop fest.
look close at the matching suits hanging from floor three. classic.

Friday, March 21, 2014

Pierra Menta Day 2

Night and day different from day 1. Our bus got its wheels back.

a typical mid race scene on a beautiful spring day


Fast Italian skimo chicks ski in jeans!
 After a few little mishaps in the first thirty minutes of the stage, Brian and I had a clean and relatively fast day. I showed up to the beacon check gate with about five minutes to spare and the gate troll would not let me through without Brian. Brian was already lined up and ready to go. By the time we figured it out we had about two minutes to start. As a result, we started DFL behind about 450 racers. DFL is Brian's acronym for Dead F-ing Last. Off to the races. The first climb ended after only about five minutes before we transitioned to down-hill mode. I missed my heel throw and thought Brian got out ahead of me and I spent the next thirty minutes chasing a guy with a similar suit and matching helmet to Brian's getup. The first real climb was about 900 vert-feet up the winding town road and through peoples mucky side-yards. At the end of this dry-running section it was skins on and as I was leaving the transition Brian yelled at me from below to hold up.

Brian's Alien boot had malfunctioned at the very first transition and by the time he was done fixing the problem he found himself again DFL! I'm pretty sure Brian was working much harder than he wanted to in order to catch up. The only plus side to being DFL is that there is no place to go but up. We passed about eighty people and only got chicked by the eight womens teams. Mel Bernier (Canadian Skimo Queen) and her partner Valentine Favre (French National Team crusher and twelve-time PM racer) finished fifth and I will never be disappointed to be behind these very fast women. Nice work Mel and Valentine!!

As far as being sick goes, I'm still expelling green shite and I'm almost sure I got some of my sweet little daughter's day care germs. We raced well but I still felt about 85/90%. On the bright side I thought about Sullivan a lot today and enjoyed the fact that I might have a little piece of her here with me albeit a virus.

Despite waking up very sore from a difficult day one, I felt really good for the first couple climbs and after Brian caught me, we passed teams all day. The course was magnificent and the climbs seemed to go on forever. One of the coolest things about the PM has to be the spectators. All over the course there were people of all ages, mostly on race gear cheering and ringing cowbells. "Allez allez allez" all day long. Another crazy thing is the helicopter buzzing the course all day long. It is clear that we are in the heart of ski-alpinisme country.

Brian, Helicopter and a perfectly set twinner skin track

The nitty gritty of the day in nerd stats thanks to the Professor:

Vert Gain: 3000 meters or 9900 feet
Distance Covered: 26.6k or 16.6 miles



A few more photos of the day:

another beautiful set of perfectly set double-track kick turns

horizontal recovery

zoom in and you can see racers for miles. it was very satisfying
to pass both near packs of racers seen in the foreground.

Grand Mont Stage tomorrow:

I am very excited about tomorrow's stage. 2600 meters (8580') and the main event for spectating. Apparently on top of the Grand Mont there will be thousands of crazy spectators grilling sausages, getting drunk on good wine and ringing the biggest and loudest cowbells imaginable. Mike Werner and Carol Viau will be there to cheer us on as they are spending the winter here on patrol exchange near Les Arcs. Mike's troller boss has done the race 20 times and recently did his own version where he did 6000 meters in 9.5 hours. That's almost 20,000' of gain and loss folks. Wow. People here are touring machines. I can't wait to meet the guy. There is a youtube vid of his major accomplishment and I'll link that up tomorrow. To bed for now.

Thursday, March 20, 2014

Pierra Menta Day 1: Bus Without Wheels

Day one did not go so well.

This is about how I felt nearly all day. Arrgh. Doubled over in
near 50-degree temps.

Brian "raced" all day in Suunto training zones 1 and 2 and 3 while I battled cramps for four hours and about 7,000 vertical feet. I've been blowing green snot out of my nose for the last three days and I think I've got a virus of some kind. After the first 45 minutes of today's stage I started cramping and I was not sure I could reasonably finish or finish at all. Brian did some towing. Despite feeling like a total wreck, I managed to enjoy the race atmosphere, scenery and surprisingly the descents. We skied a bunch of great corn and a little north facing chalk. We finished the stage in about 4:45 likely an hour-and-fifteen slower than where we should have been.

The stage stats and other technical screen shots from Brian's Suunto Ambit watch:

interesting map of the stage

Course Profile


Looks like the stage was 8883 feet of gain over 20.73K or 13 miles.
We finished 175 of 181 teams of men and got chicked by 24 teams. Soul crushing. Rats.


We will give it another shot tomorrow. Honestly if I have another day tomorrow like I did today we will probably call it and go back to Chamonix. There are two upsides to bagging it: going back to Cham and avoiding the impending rainstorm on Saturday and Sunday. The downsides of bailing are numerous.

suffer-fest

the shade felt good

difficult and beat out booters

killer ridge travel

Tuesday, March 18, 2014

Pierra Menta Prep


I'm in Chamonix with Professor Harder of www.skimolife.com and we are travelling to Areche Beaufort tomorrow to race the Pierra Menta. The PM is a storied ski mountaineering race set in the aforementioned town and is what I call the "Tour de France" of skimo racing. The event is a four day event where each day we race up and down the peaks and ridges above the town. The total vert gain for the race is about 33,000 feet or 10,000 meters. Brian and I are "middle of the pack" racers and we expect to race the event as tourist with cameras. Our race goals include having fun, not blowing up, not ever sprinting, taking photos, and finishing strong. The race starts on Thursday March 20.

I've not posted anything to this blog for a long time. Work, family, training for this race among other interests have redirected my priorities and writing here kind of fell off. Perhaps I can find some time to write more in the near future. I will certainly update the blog during the race and after if I can make a good Internet connection.

Below is a short photo essay of stuff leading up to this race:

Jackson Hole from near the top of Snow King

Snow King Skimo Training:

Harder emailed me about trying to get in to the Pierra Menta around Dec. 1. After deciding to commit a bunch of time and money to the process of application I also decided to commit a bunch of time to putting miles and miles under my feet with the little skis. A typical training weekend consisted of around eight laps up and down the king in race gear. I had several tools to help with the monotony of this task. The best tool was surely my iPhone with hours and hours of podcasts in the ear-buds


Race Lap on the Middle:


Danny Beasse in Garnet South Fork
 Local architect, French-Canadian crusher Danny Beasse and I made a race lap at the middle a week and a half ago. We had a great day out and found some of the best "little ski" conditions I've ever found in Garnet Canyon. Our bid for the summit was cut short about 400 feet below the summit due to unacceptable avalanche hazard given our position, gear, and the consequences of a slide. Thanks Danny

Rock Springs Buttress Lap:


 Nate Fuller called me one random Thursday in January about going to the buttress. I immediately said yes and bailed on work. We climbed the "School Route" in boots. It was awesome as always. Our own private Cham-like experience. I think we got off route a little and the climbing felt pretty 5.10 in a few spots. What an awesome day. Thanks Nate.

Marco Chiaberge, Alex Simpson and I on Glory
Glory Bowl:

I probably snowboarded more this winter than most due to the major storming we had in jackson. Above is a photo of one of the only times I skied there. I love slow-boarding. Thanks slow-board.

5.9 in boots is so fun.

stellar stone on L' Aiguille du Midi
Switzerland and France:

I arrived in Geneva about 28 hours ago and have managed to get up the Midi, rest, eat, drink coffee (some bad, some good) and write this blog post. I have never been to Cham before and I am really in awe of this place. I will come back here several times if I have it my way.

Professor Harder inhaling second hand smoke


Brian in the Vallee Blanche

Thursday, November 28, 2013

Dynafit Evo Boots For Sale

Size 27 Barely Used
Brand new, never worn 13/14 evo/pdg liners included

See my ebay listing.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/321261408746?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1
Message me to avoid eBay if you are interested.

PayPal only.
Reasonable shipping and fast.

Thanks

Thursday, November 7, 2013

The ACL Arete, Zion National Park

A Story about Climbing, Friends and Life

Two of my good friends and climbing partners of many years set out in the late fall of 2008 to equip a long line of face holds and nice cracks on the Southeast face of Bridge Mountain. Unlike most Zion big route tactics (fast, light and in the cracks, climbed once over one to six days), these guys endeavored to take the time to stay out of the dirty corners and find a way to climb the nice face features out right or left of said dirty corners. Tyler Phillips and Robbie Colbert made it happen and have completed the equipage of what is likely one of the finest free routes in the whole desert southwest. What happened over the last five years was not a quick, alpine route with sparse anchors and teetering loose rock. What happened is a veritable vertical crag: well-equipped and rather free of the stacked loose rock one usually expects to find on a long Zion route; that is for the lower half anyway. The upper half of the mountain remains a full on alpine climbing adventure covered in shattered white stone. Combining the amazing lower half of the route with the alpine upper half, one can free climb past chain anchors for two thousand feet to the summit of one of the prettiest peaks in the world. All under 5.11.

Tyler Phillips:
Tyler giving me shit for my Euro-water
Tyler is a Sasquatch of a human, full of it in a good way and one of my very best friends. Tyler and I met in German class at Hillcrest High School of South Salt Lake City in 1993. Tyler was one year my senior and one day this dude in a black “steal your face” shirt was sleeping in class and I poked him with a ruler and said, “Tyler, you are a Hessian”. Hessian is the slang term we used for rocker dudes, or F-dudes with high-tops, mullets, I-Rock Zs and Novas. This phrase has been jokingly repeated countless times over the past twenty years as we have remained good friends and climbing partners ever since. Tyler is now a husband to a very patient and wonderful wife, father of two fine children and a travelling high angle rigging worker. Over the five years it took to put this project to bed, Tyler suffered a blown ACL (inbounds avalanche at Snowbird), had a son (Cash, who is very good at sword-fighting) and changed careers.

Robbie Colbert:
Robbie found a cool snake shed on the approach
Robbie is like a wolverine or badger without the bad temperament. He leads hot shot crews and loves, seemingly more than anything, skiing and fishing. He also happens to be a very strong climber. When I met Robbie (like 1996 or so), He was a Petzl sponsored athlete leading the way in the early early stages of mixed climbing. At the time he was putting up the hardest mixed routes in Utah at what was then called M8 and M9(likely sandbagged now) with leashed tools. Many of his routes were in the 5.12+ range before he got to the ice. Robbie was known for his days of solo lapping “Stairway to Heaven”, a seven pitch WI5 in Provo Canyon and his run-out, difficult mixed routes in Maple Canyon. It was one of these mixed routes that could have killed him and would have killed lesser men. Robbie took a ground fall on a route down there from about eighty feet up and miraculously walked away with several broken ribs. No stranger to recovering from injury, Robbie blew his ACL in the summer of 08  while mountain biking and had to finish out the fire-fighting season without a major stabilizing piece of his leg. While quietly ignoring the injury, Robbie opened the initial pitches of the ACL. In the last five years since the route started, Robbie has spent a few winters here in Jackson skiing, weathered a divorce and has since started dating a life-loving, smart, athletic new girl. This positive turn of events could not have happened to a more deserving, well meaning, good-hearted person.

The ACL is Finished...But Maybe...

The first major peak you see as you round
the corner in to Springdale. Bridge Mountain.
In the fall of 2010, Robbie, Tyler and Bill Ohran completed the ACL ArĂȘte. The end of the good rock and amazing patina features happened at half height of the peak after ten pitches of mostly amazing face climbing at an accessible grade. Robbie made a topo-map and they thought they were done. However, in 2011 and 2012 these guys went back several more times and added alternative pitches to the route in places where the faces were begging to be climbed.

This last spring I called Tyler and asked him if he could free up for a quick trip to Zion for what would be my last hurrah for a while. My wife was expecting our daughter at the time and with six weeks left I felt it my last good chance to do a big route for a while. I proposed we climb the ACL, bivi, and go to the top of the mountain. The very slim chance that the good climbing features might continue to the summit had nagged at Ty and Robbie since calling it a route and Tyler was game to go give it a look. Robbie was busy probably snogging his new gal, so we went down there without him to check it out.


The 5.11 2" crack on "Dancing With the Scars"
Dancing With the Scars:

Brian Bird joined our fun for the first go-round and we decided to haul the lower route for a bivi atop the good stuff. We made quick work of the established pitches and settled in for a dirt bivi with a twelver and some canned Stag chili. After fully unpacking and settling in, a nasty squall came in and soaked our non-bivi-sack-having asses and we rapped to the ground. The next day, we were as sore as post-election republicans and spent the day eating and hydrating. Whilst recovering, we hatched a plan to make the most of my last day (the next day) and rounded up Joe French for round two. This time there would be no stinking hauling. Just good old fashioned Joe French style no f*#@ing around, going up the mountain. Joe was fresh off too much climbing (not a bad problem to have) so he offered to jumar the whole route and carry the pack. Obviously neither Tyler nor I protested.
Tyler and I excited to be in "The White"

Tyler Joe and I managed the first ten pitches in around three hours and were well positioned to climb the next thousand feet of slabs, cracks, bushes, choss and lovely Zion white sugar rock. The entire route sits under this amazing and huge rock scar where a massive piece of the mountain fell off near the summit in the early nineties. This thing was approximately two hundred feet tall, a hundred feet wide and about eighty feet thick. The cracks we were seeing above us lead straight to the bottom of the scar. I have to admit I really wanted to be naughty and go see the scar for myself. So, touch the scar we did. From the top of the established route, Joe, Tyler and I climbed six pitches to in a direct plumb line straight in to that crazy, apocalyptic pile of shattered white garbage and what we found was a little bit unnerving. With darkness approaching and four hundred feet of vertical talus resting on piles of fresh sand above us, we made the not too hard decision to call it good and go the f*#@ down. We named this variation “Dancing with the Scars”.


Amazing bolted face climbing on the "Hot Pocket", pitch 5



Going to the top:

After not sending the mountain but having an amazing pre-baby mancation with a bunch of my best buddies, Tyler and I hatched a plan to go back up there the following Fall with Robbie and stand on the summit of this nagging bastard of a mountain. Tyler still had hopes of finding a line of face-climbable features out right of the scar and drilling a few more “sport climbing” pitches. Robbie wanted to summit the peak and I was really just hoping for another grand adventure in the desert alpine arena.
Sweet Georgia Brown says, "Lord Jesus its a Fahhhr"

So, two weeks ago, Tyler Robbie and I stood atop the mother. All the things that can put a kibosh on a good outing: work, wives, weather and kids allowed the three of us two days in Zion to do our best to get it done. Tyler and I showed up at Robbie’s place in Cedar City on a Monday night. We racked up and packed bags for another bivi and went to bed. The next day we drove the hour to Springdale and started hiking the two thousand vertical feet of sand and cacti to the base of the route. We went with one leader and two followers jugging with packs. We managed to get to the top of the ACL with plenty of daylight to spare and sat down for a wonderful night of camping. A small fire, a pint of Jim Beam, Charles Ramsay’s “Dead Giveaway”, Sweet Georgia Brown’s “Lord Jesus it’s a Fire”, Kenny Rogers, Waylon Jennings, Hank III and lots of hard belly laughing all contributed to our “Tribute to Satan” bivouac. Good times were had by all.
Tyler the "Hessian"

Summit day was fairly un-eventful as they often are and as I generally prefer them to be; for when you are climbing in the white, it is best to avoid “events”. We climbed the first four hundred feet of familiar terrain which includes two pitches of bolted-on-lead 5.10 slabs and made a right turn to avoid the scar for good. Four more long pitches of choss-stacked 5.8 and about three hundred feet of fourth class brought us to the summit. Tyler did not find the face climbing he was looking for so we drilled a rappel route between our new line and the “Scars” line to look one last time for the glorious “sport climbing” pitches that could be there. But alas it was not to be and Tyler and Robbie were finally able to put this nagging ACL problem to bed.
The end.




Pitch notes from Iphone:

Tyler in the only wide on the whole route.
5.8 and with protection.
Pitch 1: left is nice .10+, right is quick and easy
Pitch 2 and 3 can be linked at 40 meters
Pitch 4 right hand variant starts half-way through P3
Pitch 4 original is north facing .10+ steep face and nice
Ledge between pitch 4 and 5 is called "Meniscus Manor"
Pitch 5 is the "Arizona Hot Pocket" a fire-fighter thing
Pitch 6 is short and is "The Goddamned Tree Trough"
Pitch 7 faces north and is bolted
Pitch 8 faces north and is mostly bolted
Pitch 9 is bolted left and is 5.8 crack to the right.
Pitch 10 starts after moving the belay. It faces west.
Tyler getting run-out in "the white"
on the second to last
pitch of "Dancing"
CAMPSITE
Pitch 11 is 40 meters of 4th class
Pitch 12 is a bolted slab. Has a .10- move or two.
Pitch 13 is also a bolted slab. 5.11- above the belay
  or runout 5.8 out left and around
Pitch 14 begins from the large ledge atop the whole ridge
  and is pretty easy and moves far to the right in to the
  smallest corner system.
Pitch 15 was pretty good crack climbing trending right again
  to the arete of that smaller corner
Tyler and Robbie with one pitch
to go before paying tribute.
Pitch 16 was easy and all the pro was placed to keep the
  rope out of the piles and piles of broken white shit.
Walk up and left through about three to four hundred feet of
  third class
Pitch 17 was about 30 meters of 5.6







Tyler, Joe and a Turkey Vulture on Pitch 9 bolts variation. Original
route goes up cracks to the right.










All that nice white sand is courtesy of the rockfall event. It made
for a nice bivi-farm-ready beach on which to pay tribute.

Tyler leading good rock in "the white" on our summit day.


Ty and Robbie atop Bridge Mountain. Formidable Streaked Wall
in the shade of the background. 

Chain anchors from bottom to top. Thanks for the hardware, Men.
Note the piles of teetering white all over the ledge. 
Robbie's topo map for the "good pitches"




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